Vanity & Toilet Installs Done Leak-Free, First Time

Vanity/Toilet Installs in Denver

Deft Plumbing installs vanities and toilets across the Denver Metro Area at upfront flat-rate prices, with no hidden fees and no money down. We verify drain rough-in, inspect the floor flange, set the wax ring once, and leave zero slow leaks behind. Licensed, bonded, and insured in Colorado, we bundle both fixtures into one visit so you pay a single mobilization. Most combo installs finish the same day.

Before you replace, it's worth confirming a new toilet is actually the right call. A running toilet, a weak flush, or a leak at the base is usually a targeted repair, not a reason to buy a new fixture. Our Denver Metro toilet repair page walks through when a repair holds and when replacement genuinely makes sense. The install jobs that go sideways almost always fail at the same three spots: a floor flange sitting too low after new tile, a P-trap with the wrong slope that traps odors, or a supply line installed without a functioning shutoff valve. If you're comparing quotes, any contractor who won't give you a clear scope before they arrive is telling you something. We give you a flat rate upfront, not an estimate that balloons once we're already under your sink.

Whether you've already bought your fixtures or you need guidance on what to purchase before we show up, call (720) 880-8064 and we'll walk through the job with you before scheduling.

Vanity & Toilet in One Visit — What's Included

Bundling a vanity and toilet replacement into one appointment isn't just convenient — it's genuinely cheaper and less disruptive than two separate visits. You pay for one mobilization, one water shutoff and drain verification, and one final leak check that covers both fixtures. Most plumbers won't talk about this because it reduces their billable trip count. We do it anyway because it's the right call for the homeowner.

Here's what a combined install covers: drain rough-in location verification for the vanity; floor flange inspection, cleaning, and wax ring replacement for the toilet; new 1/4-turn angle stops on both hot and cold supply lines; P-trap slope set to the correct 1/4-inch-per-foot pitch; wax ring seating with the bowl landed once; tank-to-bowl leak dye test; supply line connections checked at both ends; and silicone bead at the vanity backsplash joint. That's not a generic list — that's the actual scope we complete on every combo job.

Realistically, you're looking at a half-day for most bathroom combos. A bathroom that has both a vanity and a toilet in rough-in alignment with the new fixtures runs 3 to 4 hours start to finish. If the drain needs rerouting or the flange is damaged, we tell you before the work starts and adjust the flat rate accordingly. No surprises after the fact.

What Drives Vanity & Toilet Installation Cost

The honest answer is: it depends on scope, and anyone who gives you a single number without seeing your rough-in is guessing. The cost drivers are predictable, though, and understanding them helps you budget accurately before you call anyone.

Like-for-like toilet swap (good flange, no tile change) is the lowest-cost scenario — the flange is intact, the floor height hasn't changed, and the new toilet footprint matches the old one. Labor is straightforward. A toilet with flange repair or replacement adds materials and time, since a cracked cast-iron flange or a recessed flange below finished tile requires breaking the seal, cutting out the old fitting, and setting a new one.

A like-for-like vanity swap where drain and supply align is the fast version — new angle stops, new P-trap assembly, done. A vanity with a drain reroute is different: switching cabinet sizes almost always means the drain center shifts, and a shift past what an offset P-trap can handle means opening the wall to move the drain pipe. Double vanities mean two drain connections, two sets of supply lines, and doubled faucet work — more time, but still a single trip. Labor-only installs (you supply the fixture) get straight labor rate, no markup on the fixture.

Deft Plumbing uses upfront flat-rate pricing — you get the number before any work starts. Call (720) 880-8064 or use the contact form to describe your scope and we'll give you a written estimate, not a range that inflates once we're in your bathroom.

Labor-Only Installs — We'll Install What You Bought

A significant portion of our vanity and toilet calls come from homeowners who already have the fixture sitting in their garage. They bought it at a big-box store, got it on sale, or ordered it online — and now they need a licensed plumber to put it in. That's a completely normal job for us. We don't care where you bought it.

Before we arrive, confirm four things. First, rough-in depth on the vanity: measure from the finished wall behind the cabinet to the center of the drain pipe coming out of the wall — standard is 16 to 18 inches, and if your new cabinet's drain opening doesn't land near that center, we'll need to discuss options before the cabinet goes in. Second, rough-in distance on the toilet: measure from the finished wall behind the toilet to the center of the floor drain bolts — standard is 12 inches, though some older homes have 10-inch or 14-inch rough-ins, and a 12-inch toilet on a 10-inch rough-in won't sit flush against the wall.

Third, shut-off valve access: is there a working angle stop under the sink or at the wall for the toilet supply? If the existing valves are seized or missing, that's additional work we need to plan for. Fourth, drain type: vessel sinks use a different drain assembly than undermount or drop-in — confirm your drain matches your sink style.

Bring the installation manual if you have it. We'll review it on-site and flag anything unusual before we start. Labor-only rates are quoted the same way as full-supply jobs — flat rate, no surprises.

The Vanity Installation Process — First Call to Final Cleanup

Here's exactly what happens when you book a vanity install with Deft Plumbing — not a generic overview, but the actual sequence of events.

Assessment first. Before we touch anything, we locate the drain rough-in center and both supply line stubs, measure the rough-in depth, and compare it to your new cabinet's drain opening. If there's a mismatch, we scope the correction before proceeding. Then water shutoff: we close the angle stops at the wall, and if they're seized or leak when tested, we address them now — not after the cabinet is in place and access is blocked.

Demo next. The old cabinet comes out. We check the subfloor for water damage — a soft spot under an old cabinet is a common finding and worth knowing about before new cabinetry goes over it. We don't hide what we find. If the drain center doesn't align with the new cabinet's opening, we reroute the drain pipe inside the wall before the cabinet goes in. Far easier with the wall open than after the cabinet is installed.

New angle stops go on every install: 1/4-turn ball-style on both hot and cold lines. Old compression stops come out, every time. We level the cabinet front-to-back and side-to-side and secure it to the wall studs — a vanity that's not anchored will shift over time and stress the drain connection. P-trap assembly goes in with slip-joint connections torqued properly, not hand-tightened and not overtightened. Supply lines connect to the angle stops and faucet with appropriate fittings.

Finally, sealing and leak test. The backsplash joint gets a continuous silicone bead — that's the line that stops water from getting behind the cabinet and rotting the floor. We open the angle stops slowly, fill the basin, and watch every connection point for 5 minutes. P-trap slip joints, supply line connections, and the drain basket seal all get checked. We don't leave until the test is clean.

The Toilet Installation Process — Step by Step

The toilet is where callbacks happen most often — and almost every callback traces back to one of three things that were skipped during installation. Here's the actual sequence we run on every toilet swap, whether it's a downtown condo or a new toilet set in a Parker home with high-mineral water.

Remove the old toilet first: shut off the supply, flush to empty the tank, disconnect the supply line, and pull the closet bolts. The old wax ring comes off with the bowl — we bag it immediately. Then the flange inspection, which is the most important step and the most commonly overlooked. We check for cracks at the bolt slots, corrosion on cast-iron flanges, and the flange height relative to your finished floor. The top of the flange should sit flush to the floor surface or no more than 1/4 inch above it. If tile was added after the original toilet was set, the flange may now be recessed — and a recessed flange needs a flange extender or a double-thick wax ring, not a standard ring that won't fully bridge the gap.

New closet bolts go in and get positioned before the wax ring is set. You only want to land the bowl once — repositioning after the wax ring is compressed compromises the seal. Standard wax ring for a flush flange, extra-thick ring or flange extender for a recessed flange. The ring centers on the flange horn, the bowl comes straight down, no rocking during seating. Closet nuts tighten evenly, alternating sides, until the bowl is solid but the porcelain base isn't stressed — overtightening cracks the base, and most warranties don't cover that.

Tank installation next: tank bolts and rubber gasket seat properly against the bowl, tightening evenly to prevent the tank from sitting crooked. New braided stainless supply line from the shut-off to the fill valve — we don't reuse old supply lines on a new toilet, because the cost difference is minimal and the failure risk is not. Fill valve and flapper check: we adjust the fill valve to the correct water level, verify the flapper seals completely, and run multiple flush cycles. If there's any ghost-flushing or incomplete flush, we address it before we leave.

Final inspection covers a hand-check at the supply line connection, a visual check at the base for wax ring seepage, and a level check on the bowl. A toilet that's even slightly out of level will rock under load and eventually break the wax seal — usually into the subfloor, not visibly. That's the worst outcome we work to prevent.

Denver Plumbing Permits — When You Need One

Most homeowners installing a vanity or toilet in Denver don't need a permit — and most plumbers won't tell you that because it makes the job sound simpler. Here's the actual breakdown.

No permit is required for like-for-like fixture replacements that don't involve moving drain or supply lines. Swapping a toilet for a new toilet in the same location, or replacing a vanity where the drain and supply rough-in positions don't change — these are maintenance replacements, not alterations, and the Denver Building and Fire Code does not require a trade permit for them.

A permit is likely required for any work that moves a drain line or adds new supply piping. If we're rerouting your vanity drain to accommodate a different cabinet size, or adding a shut-off valve where none existed, that work technically requires a plumbing permit in Denver. The Denver e-permit portal handles these online and isn't a lengthy process for small scopes.

Why it matters at resale: Denver and most surrounding jurisdictions require disclosure of unpermitted work on a real estate transaction. If a future inspection reveals unpermitted plumbing alterations, you may be required to open walls for inspection or bring work up to current code at your expense — after the fact, at full price. A permit pulled now costs a fraction of what retroactive compliance costs later.

Deft Plumbing is licensed in Colorado and pulls permits when required. If your scope triggers a permit requirement, we'll tell you before the work starts and factor it into the flat-rate quote. We don't skip permits on work that requires them — that protects you, not just us.

Choosing a Vanity Before We Install It — A Practical Guide

A lot of homeowners are searching for installation help before they've bought anything. If that's you, here's what to confirm before you purchase so the install goes smoothly.

Rough-in depth matters first. Measure from the finished wall surface to the center of your drain pipe. Standard vanity cabinets assume a 16-to-18-inch rough-in depth, and shallower bathrooms sometimes have drain rough-ins at 14 inches or less — not every cabinet will work. Plumbing centerline alignment matters next: where is the drain pipe coming out of the wall, measured from the side wall? Your new cabinet's drain opening needs to land within a workable range of that center. If you're going from a 24-inch to a 36-inch cabinet, that center shifts — and if it shifts past what an offset P-trap can handle, you're looking at a drain reroute.

For wall-hung vs. floor-mount: floating vanities look clean, but they require blocking inside the wall — typically a horizontal 2x6 or 2x8 at the right height for the mounting bracket. If your bathroom wall doesn't have blocking, we need to add it before the vanity goes up. Not a huge job, but it does require knowing in advance. Don't order a floating vanity and assume the wall is ready.

Sink cutout and faucet holes are easy to get wrong. If the vanity top comes pre-drilled for a 3-hole faucet but you want a single-hole faucet, you'll either need a deck plate cover or a different top. Vessel sinks need zero holes in the top — the faucet mounts through the counter or the wall. Double-sink vanities have two drain assemblies and two sets of supply lines, and the drain connections typically share a common P-trap configuration — we verify this lines up with your wall drain before the cabinet is set.

If you're not sure whether a specific fixture will work in your space, call us before you buy. It's a free conversation and it prevents a return trip to the home improvement store with a vanity that doesn't fit.

Signs It's Time to Replace Both Your Vanity and Toilet

Sometimes you come in planning to replace just the toilet and leave the vanity, or vice versa. That's fine — we're not here to upsell work you don't need. But there are situations where doing both at the same time is the genuinely smarter move.

Water damage under the vanity cabinet is the clearest signal. A soft floor or swollen cabinet base almost always means a slow drain leak or a failed supply line connection. If the cabinet has been holding moisture, the subfloor may also be compromised. At that point you're replacing the cabinet anyway — might as well do it right with new rough-in work.

Outdated rough-ins that limit fixture choices are the second case. Older homes sometimes have 10-inch toilet rough-ins and drain locations that don't match any modern vanity cabinet without an offset P-trap. If you're remodeling and want design flexibility, updating the rough-in while walls are open makes every future fixture choice easier.

Fixture age and efficiency are worth weighing. Toilets manufactured before 1994 use 3.5 to 7 gallons per flush. Current WaterSense-certified models use 1.28 gallons per flush. If your toilet is original to a house built before the mid-1990s, the water savings on a replacement often justify the cost within a few years — something we walk Arvada homeowners through on every toilet swap out in Jefferson County. Old vanity supply lines — braided stainless has a rated life of about 10 years — are a legitimate failure risk if they've never been changed.

Finally, bathroom remodel scope creep: if you're already having tile work done for a new shower install, or you're replacing the light fixture and mirror anyway, adding a vanity and toilet to the scope while the room is disrupted costs less in total labor than separate visits. Sequence the work right — tile first, then fixtures — and one mobilization covers everything.

Vanity/Toilet Installs FAQs

How long does a vanity and toilet installation take?

A like-for-like toilet swap with a clean flange runs 45 minutes to an hour. A vanity replacement where the drain rough-in aligns with the new cabinet runs 1.5 to 2 hours, including new angle stops and P-trap assembly. A combined vanity-and-toilet install in a bathroom with no rough-in changes typically takes 3 to 4 hours total. Add 2 to 3 hours if the vanity drain needs rerouting, or 1 to 1.5 hours if the floor flange needs replacement. We give you a time estimate along with the flat-rate price before any work begins.

Do I need to supply the vanity and toilet fixtures, or do you provide them?

Either way works. We can source fixtures directly, or we install what you've already purchased — no markup on your fixture, straight labor rate. If you're supplying the fixtures, confirm the toilet rough-in distance (usually 12 inches from wall to flange center) and the vanity rough-in depth before you buy. A toilet purchased for a 12-inch rough-in won't sit correctly in a 10-inch rough-in space. Call us before you buy if you're not sure — it's a quick conversation and it prevents a wasted trip to the store.

Will you haul away the old vanity and toilet?

Yes. Old fixture removal and disposal is included in our install scope. We don't leave demo debris on the curb for you to deal with. The old wax ring, closet bolts, vanity cabinet, and any removed P-trap components leave with us. If the old toilet is in serviceable condition and you'd prefer to keep it or donate it, just let us know and we'll set it aside rather than taking it.

What if my new fixture's plumbing doesn't line up with the existing rough-in?

A small offset — 2 inches or less on the vanity drain — can usually be handled with an offset P-trap without opening the wall. A larger offset requires rerouting the drain pipe, which we do before the cabinet is set. For toilets, a rough-in mismatch between the fixture and the flange distance means the fixture won't sit correctly against the wall. If you discover this after purchase, the fixture needs to be exchanged for the correct rough-in size — we can't adjust the floor flange location to match the wrong fixture. We'll tell you this before we start, not after.

Do you guarantee your installation work?

Yes. If a connection we made leaks or a fixture we set fails due to our workmanship, we come back and fix it at no charge. That applies to wax ring seals, supply line connections, P-trap assemblies, and angle stop installations. It doesn't cover manufacturer defects in fixtures you supplied, or damage caused by a separate event after our work is complete. We're a small local operation — our reputation is the business. A callback isn't a debate; it's a same-day or next-day fix.

Can you install a floating (wall-hung) vanity on any wall?

Not without preparation. Wall-hung vanities mount to blocking inside the wall — typically a horizontal 2x6 or 2x8 at the bracket height specified by the manufacturer. Standard drywall with no blocking won't support the load. If your wall doesn't have existing blocking at the right height, we need to add it before the vanity goes up. This means opening a section of drywall, adding the blocking, and patching before install. It's not a complex job, but it does require knowing the vanity you've selected and its mounting height before we arrive.

Can you install a wall-hung (in-wall tank) toilet?

Yes. In-wall tank toilets require a carrier frame mounted inside the wall — a steel frame assembly that supports the bowl's rated load and houses the flush tank. Frame placement has to be precise: the finished wall surface determines the bowl-to-wall gap, and the rough-in connections need to hit the carrier's inlet positions. This is not a like-for-like swap — it's a structural rough-in job that requires wall work. If you're planning a wall-hung toilet, let us know at booking so we can scope it correctly and bring the right materials.

My toilet rocks slightly. Does it need a new wax ring?

Probably — but start by ruling out uneven floor or loose closet bolts before assuming the wax ring has failed. Tighten the closet nuts first. If the rocking continues, check whether the floor itself is level under the base. A toilet that still rocks after bolt tightening needs to come up for a flange inspection and wax ring replacement. Don't ignore a rocking toilet — every flush cycle flexes the wax seal slightly, and over time that breaks the seal entirely. Sewage leaking into your subfloor is a slow failure that stays hidden until the floor starts to give. That's a much bigger repair than a wax ring.

What happens if you open the wall for a drain reroute and find something unexpected?

We tell you immediately, before we proceed. The most common findings are water damage to studs or subfloor from a slow leak, galvanized drain pipe that's corroded to near-failure, or PVC that was previously repaired incorrectly. If what we find changes the scope, we explain what it is, why it matters, and what it will cost to address — before we do the work. Deft Plumbing doesn't create surprises on your invoice. If the additional scope isn't something you want to tackle right now, we'll note it and button up the wall. You make the call.

Should I replace my toilet flapper or the whole toilet?

If your toilet is less than 15 years old and structurally sound, a toilet bowl flapper replacement is usually the right move for a phantom-flushing or running-water problem. A flapper costs a few dollars and takes 10 minutes to swap — it's the most common fix for a toilet that runs continuously. If the toilet is original to a pre-1994 home (using 3.5 to 7 gallons per flush), or if the porcelain is cracked, the fill valve is failing repeatedly, or the bowl has mineral deposits that cleaning can't address, full replacement makes more sense. We'll tell you honestly which one your situation calls for.

Need Vanity/Toilet Installs?

Contact Deft Plumbing for a free, upfront quote. No surprises, no hidden fees. We're licensed, bonded, and insured for your protection.

Call (720) 880-8064 or request a free estimate online.

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Service Areas

We provide vanity/toilet installs services across the Denver metro area, including Aurora, Lakewood, Arvada, Westminster, Thornton, Broomfield, and more.

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